Tuscobia 2018, Ice and Inspiration



Photo Courtesy of Gregory T Photography

I am not a religious person, but I have always had some deep understanding that there are things in this world that are magical, beautiful, and beyond our understanding. Once and a while I feel in touch with this force, but only for moments at a time. Maybe this is what some call enlightenment, or awakening, and I am sure for some of the religious, it is getting in touch with God. Regardless of what you call it, I feel it during my time spent alone in the woods running, and I always feel it more during the Tuscobia Winter Ultra.

This report is not meant to be some sophisticated writing on the spiritual aspects of running, but I start with this intro so you understand why I write about Tuscobia. I run dozens of ultramarathons a year but very few inspire me to sit at my laptop and reflect on my experience. Every year Tuscobia does, it inspires me while at the same time humbling me.

For those unfamiliar with the Tuscobia Winter Ultra, let me give you the run down. The Tuscobia state trail runs between Park Falls and Rice Lake, WI. It is an all-purpose trail but mostly used by snowmobiles in the winter. It passes by sleepy towns with populations ranging from unincorporated to 8000 but mostly unincorporated. The trail is flat and straight with a few random hills and is tunneled by pine trees. Runners, bikers, and skiers can choose to participate in the 80 mile from Park Falls to Rice Lake or the 160 miler, from Rice Lake to Park Falls and back to Rice Lake. There is one check point about midway through for the 80 milers, and an extra check point at the turn around for the 160 milers. With little aid, racers must carry their required gear with them (see below). Bikers strap the gear to their bikes, runners and skiers usually pull a sled.  You are not allowed crews, or to accept aid from anyone other than another participant. You are allowed to visit gas stations, and restaurants along the way, but those are few and far between.

Every year Tuscobia seems to throw some new challenge to the racers. Last year saw temperatures around -18 at the start, dipping to -30 below at night (wind-chill not included). This year there was debate if there would be enough snow to cover the trail. The Thursday before the race left the trail covered in a slushy, rainy mess. This made it difficult for the 160 mile racers as it caused wet feet early on. As an 80 mile racer, I start a day later. The trail had firmed up but turned treacherous in some spots as it was covered in ice.

Jason and I happy at the start of the race!

 

Our 80 mile race started on Saturday morning at 10am. The temperature was about 10F which I might add is the PERFECT temperature for this sort of thing! Moisture management in winter ultras is key so I was testing out some new gear. Last year I made the mistake of getting wet early on and ended up layering clothing in an unhealthy way to get through the -30 degree night. This year my goal was to stay dry and I did. (See gear list below).

I always have a goal of finishing a race but on top of that I wanted to beat my time from last year. I had a strategy of hiking fast and whenever I saw a “no trespassing” post, road crossing, or any other man made trail marker, I would run 100 steps. This strategy did an amazing job of keeping my hiking pace up, keeping my core temperature regulated, and breaking up the repetition and muscle usage of always walking. I also had a goal of keeping a positive mental attitude and staying in the moment. I think that in ultras it is too easy to get stuck in a negative thinking pattern or to think ahead to the next aid station, finish line, or a hot shower after the race. I tried to stay in the moment as much as possible, and although I could not completely turn off the negative voices I was able to turn the volume down a bit.

The first 35 miles to Ojibwa, the one and only check point, went relatively fast. I spent some trail miles with my friend Jason and that helped pass the time a bit, but for the most part I was alone. I don’t mind the quiet time. I often get asked what I think about and to be honest, not much. Many minutes will go by when I don’t think about anything, but when I do think I try to reflect on the positive or to be grateful. This year I thought a lot about the people who are no longer with us, and about the people in my life who are going through tough times. I friend of mine just found out that her son will need a liver transplant, another ultra-marathoner died tragically this year in his early 20s. Although this doesn’t sound like a positive thought process it made me incredibly grateful to be out there in the woods on a cold winter’s day. What more could one ask for then health, and one more day to take in the beauty of the world.

A lonely biker leaving Ojibwa, Photo Courtesy of Gregory T Photography

 

Once I rolled into Ojibwa the task was simple, change socks, fill water, and go. Ojibwa is a very primitive stone building in a park, but it’s a welcome refuge when you have been out in the woods for hours. Surprisingly my clothes were not wet at all so I was able to zip in and out of the check point in 7 minutes. I was two hours ahead of my time for last year, so many of the people I came upon were 160 mile bikers. I would not have wanted to ride that icy course, kudos to them.

Now comes the 45 mile push to the finish. It can be a little daunting when you get to the check point and are not even half way there, but I tried to break the time up into two hour windows. Each hour is started with a “200 calorie bomb”. That’s the thing that never ceases to amaze me about the winter races. I need to eat just as much or more than the races that I RUN.  I am only walking through the snow, pulling a sled… how hard could it be? This year I separated my food into 200 calorie zip lock baggies so I knew I was eating 200 calories per hour and no less. I have found that I need a variety, I get sick of the same things. This year I packed my Mom’s Christmas cookies, fruit cake (my new favorite winter racing food), nuts, party mix, peanut butter protein cookies, and goldfish crackers, all foods I would not touch in real life!

The trail was very dark this year. The little sliver of a moon was always under cloud cover so I had to turn my head lamp on early. I typically like to travel without a headlamp except when a snowmobile approaches, but this year the darkness and the icy trail required some light. After leaving mile 35 I was alone except for the 160 mile fat bikes that would pass by offering a “good job”. My body from the ankles up was holding up fine, but I was experiencing some achilles and ankle pain, at least that’s what I thought it was. The discomfort in my ankles was concerning and I will never be a racer that will push the limit and wreck themselves just to finish a race. I also know that sometimes things work themselves out or don’t get any worse.  I decided that I would monitor the situation and re-evaluate my condition in Birchwood. Birchwood is a tiny town with a gas station roughly 20 miles from the finish. If needed I could call for a ride there. I didn’t want that at all.

I arrived in Birchwood at 2:45am, now 2.5 hours ahead of last year. I was able to keep a relatively quick hiking speed with my 100 steps of running mixed on when the trail was not icy. Everything in the town is closed at 2:45 in the morning but I needed to fill my hydration pack. Luckily, some volunteers from a club in Birchwood had pitched a warming tent with water, hot chocolate, and cookies. I guess they were getting sick of racers knocking on their doors in the middle of the night. It was like a little oasis and I filled my pack, said my “Thanks” and left. The temps were still staying pretty stable around 10 degrees so my water was not freezing. I always keep a Stanley thermos of hot water in my sled just in case I run out. To tell you how great that thing is, 2 days later I emptied it… the water was still warm even after a daylong race and another night in a cold car.

My ankles were not feeling any worse so I decided that I would press on and not worry about them anymore. Sometimes, the more you think about something, the more it bothers you. I sent a silent apology to my body for putting up with my shenanigans and marched on. There are a few steep rolling hills to deal with after Birchwood as the Tuscobia state trail merges with the Ice Age trail. Normally I would use this opportunity to gain some speed and run down the hills but they were all too icy. I found a path along the edge and tip toed my way down. The whole time my 30 lb sled wanted to dart down the ice, I had to brace myself to walk it safely along side of me.

Once you get through the hills the trail flattens back out and mocks you with mile markers. The last 9 miles to the 4 mile Wild Rivers trail that takes you to the finish, goes on forever. Mile 9, mile 8, mile 7… I tried not think about the time. Last year I was motivated by fear of the cold, this year I wanted to enjoy my experience and take in the beauty of the winter around me. Although there was not much snow the little there was blanketed everything in a sleepy quiet dream.

Finally the last 4 miles. I was met with a few flags signaling a turn and a nice man congratulating me on my journey. Where else would a random stranger hang out at 6:45am in the cold to cheer on someone he didn’t even know? The ultra-running community is incredible.

And...DONE! Photo Courtesy of Gregory T Photography

 

The last 4 miles are a victory lap. I was able to watch the sunrise, reflect on my journey, my year, and my life, and give Thanks. I literally said “Thank-you” out loud and cried for a minute or two. In that moment I was grateful for so many things, the Universe, God, my health, my friends and family, the running community… but mostly for this precious life.  I really hope I get to be here a long time, but just in case I don’t, I will pack as much life and love into my days as I can.

 

REQUIRED GEAR:

• Sleeping bag – Mine is rated for -20 F
• Bivy sack 
• Sleeping pad- Thermarest
• Stove.  I use an Esbit
• Fuel – 6 extra Esbit Tabs
• Firestarter -Waterproof matches
• Headlamp- Foxelli rechargeable plus one spare headlamp
• 3 individual flashing red LED lights + back-up batteries for each light- I use bike lights with lithium batteries, they do better in the cold
• $30 cash
• At least 20 square inches of reflective material- I use an elastic belt, see pictures
• 3000 calories – Peanut butter and chocolate, if shit goes down I am going to be fat and happy

Additional Gear:
- Roughly 6000 calories, more than I need but better to be safe than sorry
-Stanley Thermos filled with hot water
-4 pairs of Smartwool hiking socks
-4 pairs of Injinji liner toe socks
-Trail toes foot lubricant
-Leuko Tape
-Altra Lone Peak Neo Shell mid 3.0 boots, 1 size bigger then I typically wear
-Ice Breaker Merino Wool Base Layers
-Ansilita Goretex shell pants that are 3 sizes too big but work great!
-2 fleece 2nd layers, only needed one
-Arcterix lightly insulated coat
-Minus 33 Merino Wool Liner Gloves, kept my hand warm until about 4 am
-Garneau Clamshell cloves
-Outdoor Research Alti mitts (didn't need them)
-3 Polar Fleece buffs, replaced when wet
-1 balaclava
-2 hats, only needed one
-1 pair of puffy pants, didn't need
-Mountain Hardwear ski jacket, didn't need it
-1 ginormous duffle bag
-Expedition sled
-military grade padded waist belt with carabineers and rope for the sled
-Chap-stick, Tissues, Cellphone, Caffeine tabs
-Nathan 2 Liter Hydration pack

All of this gear weighed in at 30lbs